Trip to Panama

What began as an innocent comment – “I’d like to go to Panama” – turned into a seven-day trip with Phyllis, my friend of over 40 years. Why Panama? Panama City, with its small Jewish population of about 15,000, has approximately 40 kosher eating establishments, everything from a fancy steak house to frozen yogurt. Those of us who keep kosher, like Phyllis and me, relished the fact that we could go on a trip without bringing our own kosher food!

A recommended hotel was the 15-story Residence Inn located in downtown Panama City. This turned out to be a good choice as the rooms are large, complete with a well-stocked kitchenette. The hotel is part of a complex that includes a mall and a large office building. Inside the mall is one of the world’s largest kosher supermarkets—Super Kosher—where we bought delicious take-out for our Friday night dinner.

Day 1: Thursday

Since we arrived in Panama late on a Wednesday night, the first thing we did Thursday morning was open the drapes. The Panama City skyline is breathtaking. We were surrounded with modern skyscrapers, each a unique architectural wonder.

After breakfast, we met up with Abel, our guide, for a tour of Casco Viejo, Panama’s old city, established in the 1500s. Spanish conquistadors needed a quick way to get (plundered) gold and silver from the Pacific Ocean to Spain. Sailing around Cape Horn was not only dangerous but added three weeks to the journey. The isthmus, known today as Panama, was perfect, and the city was founded on the Pacific side.

Many of the old city buildings are World Heritage sites. The roads are narrow and the traffic insane. Small shops line the streets. Abel talked about the city’s history and showed us lush gardens and beautiful views. And, it seems that modern-day Panama hats are not real Panama hats.

We then took a drive on the Panama City causeway, which connects three man-made islands. In the distance we saw huge tankers and other ships lined up, single file, waiting to enter the canal. The third island houses the Biomuseo, a museum that celebrates Panama’s biological and cultural diversity.

Day 2: Friday

We were joined by two other couples for a tour of Panama City’s five large synagogues. Even though the Jewish community is diverse, it is united. Each synagogue was huge. One had six large sanctuaries; another had an indoor soccer field for kids! Two had meaningful memorials to the victims of October 7.

Back at our hotel, Phyllis and I walked to a nearby café for lunch. A tuna sandwich and a drink cost just $13. We also bought crescent-shaped pastries, chocolate rugalach, for later. They were delicious.

Day 3 – The Sabbath

Saturday was our day of rest. We woke up late, ate breakfast and at noon had a pre-paid lunch at a nearby Chabad. After lunch we rested, read and talked.

Day 4 – Sunday

Our tour guide, Mauricio, picked us up at 7:15 a.m. to go to the Panama Canal. Ships pass through the nearby locks twice a day – early in the morning and around 2 p.m. We went early to avoid the heat of the day and were rewarded with a great view of two huge ships slowly passing through the locks. The canal operates 24/7, with ships going one way for 12 hours, and then the other way for the next 12 hours.

France made the first attempt to build the canal in 1881. However, 20,000 workers died from malaria and yellow fever. At that time, no one knew these diseases were mosquito-borne. The U.S. acquired the project from the French in 1904 and succeeded where the French failed. The canal officially opened in 1914. It was controlled by the U.S. until 1999, when our government handed over the canal to Panama. Panama’s economy prospered once it had control of the canal.

Afterwards, we visited the Gamboa Rainforest where we saw a butterfly garden, lush vegetation as well as rescued sloths. Phyllis and I took a tram ride up a mountain over the rainforest. It was a beautiful ride, but sadly, we didn’t see any animals!

The next stop was Monkey Island, involving a very bouncy boat ride on Gatun Lake. We passed large, slow-moving ships on the way to the canal including a cruise ship and a huge container ship. At Monkey Island (actually, more than one island), the monkeys come to the boats for handouts! We saw capuchin and tamarin monkeys, as well as small bats (hanging off a tree trunk), iguanas and turtles. The howler monkeys must have been taking a siesta, as none made an appearance.

Day 5 – Monday

Another highlight of our trip was a visit, via a boat ride on the Chagres River, to an indigenous Panamanian tribe, the Embera. We were served a lunch of cooked plantains and fresh-caught tilapia. We learned about their culture and way of life. Then, members of the tribe danced and sang. We also visited a waterfall where some tourists braved a swim in the cold water.

Day 6 – Tuesday

A 2½ hour drive from the hotel took us to the Anton Valley. This area of Panama is at a higher elevation and is much cooler than the city. We saw several sites, including a large waterfall, a huge butterfly sanctuary and an orchid greenhouse. Panama is home to 1,300 species of orchids. We ate a relaxing lunch alongside a fast-moving river. Though Phyllis and I enjoyed the scenery and being surrounded by nature, we both agreed that traveling a total of five hours in the car was very tiring.

Day 7 – Wednesday

We awoke at 5:30 a.m. to get to the airport in time for our 9:30 a.m. flight home. Check-in went smoothly once we figured out how to use the airline kiosks to print luggage tags. Those damn kiosks will get you every time! And the walk to the gate, in a different terminal, was long! Very long, at least one-half mile! Luckily, the plane ride home was on time and uneventful.

What impressed me most about Panama, besides the canal, is how its diverse citizens have worked together to turn their country into a modern, thriving nation. Different religions and cultures live in harmony. The people are friendly and willing to help those of us who don’t speak Spanish! There is much in Panama we didn’t see; I hope to return one day.

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Read more by Eileen Creeger.